Black in Blagoevgrad




I walk from ABF to Skapto, when a child on the lawn, about three or four years old, sets his gaze on me. Before I can react, he is pointing and screaming at the top of his lungs while his mother just laughs. All I can do is laugh along and think in my head: What just happened?

 

When I first came to Bulgaria, I was not expecting any dramatic difference in comparison to Romania. At first, on campus, that was true. AUBG is a bubble where no one really cares about your race. But the moment you step outside the bubble and into Blagoevgrad, it’s like every step you take is someone else’s first time seeing a black person in real life. This made me curious. Was this what it was like for the other black students, too?


Sophia Morris, a first-year student, says, “An old woman sat in front of me for two minutes just staring… like shocked at my existence.”

Picture of Sophia Morris, Picture Credit: Sophia's Personal Archive

First-year student Walter-Kenneth Timothy says everyone is friendly, just puzzled: “They always ask like, why Bulgaria of all places?”

Picture of Walter-Kenneth Timothy, Picture Credit: Walter-Kenneth's Personal Archive

Second-year student Natanan Girma Guluma’s first impression of a Bulgarian was his airport driver, who fed him candy. Natanan says, “Even though we couldn’t speak the same language, he was really positive.”

Picture of Natanan Girma Guluma, Picture Credit: Natanan's Personal Archive

Arriving on campus, my first impression was that everyone is helpful. Then, I went to Kaufland to get some groceries, and suddenly I felt like a walking circus given the number of stares I was getting.


Is it Racism?

One thing I’ve come to realize is that people do not really shy away from making comments or asking questions in Blagoevgrad. It clicked for me when someone said my afro is like a “built-in umbrella.” I could not really argue because they were kind of right.

Sophia says getting called “the chocolate one” was the strangest comment she had ever received.

Leul Kassa Teshome, a third-year student, was asked the question: “Are you from the country of Africa?”

Picture of Leul Kassa Teshome, Picture Credit: Leul's Personal Archive

Funnily enough, Natanan and Artur, both second-year students, share the same story since they were together at the time. Natanan shares, “There was an old gentleman, and we were behind him. He entered the store, turned around, and looked at us for four seconds, then he just closed the door slowly.”

 Picture of Artur Nhapulo, Picture Credit: Artur's Personal Archive

Kenneth says, “I was walking to the main building, and someone passing by looked at me and started singing a song by a Nigerian artist. I don't consider it racist. I laughed as well, it was quite funny.”

Leul says, “This doesn’t represent the whole country. Bad people exist everywhere.”

Most of us agree that blatant racism is not common in Blagoevgrad. Rarely does it exist, but it tends to be more subtle. The common solution for most of us is that you just have to laugh.

 

No one I spoke to believes that Bulgarians, as a whole, are racist. Everyone described the reactions they get as unfamiliarity, not hatred.

Sophia puts it simply, saying, “They’ve never seen someone who looks like me. They’re just curious.”

Leul blames the media, not the people: “People react based on what the media shows, and it only shows the worst.”

When you’re someone’s first real-life black person, you quickly learn you’re also their first real-life correction to stereotypes.

  

Advice for Black People Coming to Blagoevgrad

Although Blagoevgrad is a lovely place, there are some things I wish I had known before coming.

My advice to anyone coming is niche: bring your natural hair products. Unless you want your curls to fight for their life in keratin shampoo.

Kenneth says, “Learn some Cyrillic.”

Sophia notes, “Expect staring.”

Natanan comments, “There will be challenges and friends to help you through them.”

Artur and Leul both advised, “Don’t take everything personally.”

This is the truth about being black in Blago. You may have a few bad moments, but far more good ones. Coming to Blagoevgrad has had some difficulties for me, but I have made friends and met people I never would have if I chose to stay at home. The joy, friendship, and experiences you have outweigh the negativity and make it all worth it.

 

What We Wish Bulgarians Knew

Here are the things we want Bulgarians to know and understand:

 

“Africa has water,” says Kenneth. 

 

“We’re just like you. Just colour differs us,” says Natanan.

 

“We’re not bad people,” comments Artur. 

 

“Africa has cities, education, culture. Not mud and huts,” explains Leul. 

 

“Come and ask us your questions, don’t just stare,” says Sophia.

 

I want Bulgarians to know that we love your country and culture. We just want to be treated like you would treat anyone else.

 


Edited by Bilyana Spasova and David Mitov

 

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